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Rue de Fleurus

24 mei, 2013 Onderdeel van paysages

Column door Diederik Stevens

De rue de Fleurus ligt er vandaag nat en troosteloos bij. Dagelijks ochtendwandel ik door dit Parijse straatje, op weg naar schilderlessen aan de kunstacademie even verderop au sixième. De plassen water op het trottoir ontwijk ik met kleine sprongetjes; grote zijsprongen maak ik wanneer boertige taxichauffeurs te dicht langs de stoepranden scheren. De oude panden aan weerszijden vermelden via aan de gevels geschroefde verweerde plaquettes dat ze gaz gestookt zijn, een revolutie destijds aan het begin van de twintigste eeuw. Veel winkels telt het straatje niet, het is er kalm, saai. Een woonstraatje, nu spiegelend nat. Moet denken aan een strofe uit een jaren zestig-lied van Rika Zaraï: Prague était triste, sous son manteau de pluie. Goed, Parijs is Praag niet, maar zoals vandaag gehuld in plenzende grijsheid wel qua haar tristesse. En dan, in volle vlucht tijdens een van m’n uitwijkmanoeuvres bots ik op een massief individu van middelbare leeftijd. De gedrongen, vierkant geboetseerde gestalte wankelt niet in het minst, ondanks mijn toch vliegend ingebrachte negentig kilo’s aan lichaamsgewicht. Wel rolt uit een door de aanvaring op de grond belande rieten boodschappentas een aantal tomaten. Enkele ervan houden pas halt in een waterplas. ‘Desolé’, stamel ik. Ik bied aan de rode groente te vergoeden. Mijn stootblok glimlacht terug. Terwijl ik het gebutste spul opraap, af en toe opkijkend, ontwaar ik het pas: het brok beton is een vrouw. En ze heet nog Steen ook. Johanna Steen, zegt ze, nadat ik haar een vergoelijkende hand heb gegeven. Zij, zoals haar naam al deed vermoeden Nederlandse van origine, wilde net haar huis binnengaan. En nadat ze een vluchtige blik werpt op mijn doorweekte vilten hoed: ‘wil je niet even komen schuilen?’ Mevrouw Steen duwt de zware ijzeren traliepoort, die toegang verschaft tot een intieme cour, voor me open.

Ze laat me binnen in haar salon – een vierkante ruimte met hoog plafond en antraciet marmeren schouw – waarna ze zich van haar druipende regenjas en gleufhoed ontdoet. Steen heeft het gezicht als van een authentieke Romein: geplakt zittend kort gedekt pagehaar op een masculien kubushoofd, met een neus als een handvat. Ze draagt een robuuste rok tot aan de enkels, zo’n gesteven wollen exemplaar waar mannenbloed gewoonlijk maar matig mee uit de voeten kan. Ook haar schoeisel is uit de categorie stavast. Hooguit een meter vijftig, taxeer ik haar lengte. Ik krijg een deja-vu. Het dringt tot me door: ik ben hier bij Johanna Steen, een eng levensechte kopie van Gertrude Stein (1874-1946). Stein, de kort bemeten potige Amerikaanse schrijfster/avant-gardekunstverzamelaarster die vanaf 1903 decennialang in Parijs verbleef, en woonde op nummer 27 aan de, jazeker, rue de Fleurus. De aangeboden koffie sla ik af. Ik ben al laat. En het is intussen opgehouden met regenen. Ik bedank haar hartelijk en biedt nogmaals mijn excuses aan. Na de traliepoort achter me te hebben dichtgeslagen kijk ik toch nog even op. Ik voel een rilling. Op de gevel boven de poort prijkt een blauw geëmailleerd bordje met daarop huisnummer 27.

Diederik Stevens is kunstschilder en schrijver. In december 2012 verscheen bij uitgeverij Atlas-Contact Hoogtij langs de Seine, een boeiend boek waarin Stevens het leven, lief en leed van Nederlandse kunstenaars en schrijvers in Parijs beschrijft. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  1. 61 Reacties op “Rue de Fleurus”

  2. Door EJvM op 25 mei, 2013

    Sterk verhaal!

  3. Door Carol Vinkenborg op 27 jul, 2013

    Geachte heer Stevens, beste Diederik,
    Zojuist “Hoogtij…” dicht geslagen; genoten, quelle effort, quel chef-d’ouevre!
    Echter, p.438, voorlaatste alinea:”…equivalent van de Londense Carnegie Hall…”.
    Bedoelt U de CH in New York, of de Royal Albert Hall in Londen, iets eerder gebouwd als de Salle Pleyel?
    Onbelangrijk. Iets voor de volgende druk, maar m.n.: hoe vaak is dit al opgevallen?
    Wellicht een reactie?
    Vriendelijke groet,

    Carol Vinkenborg, Venlo.

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